$29,000 – Marietta, GA:
“This sales post is a SUPER FEELER post and it’s me just entertaining possibly selling my pride and joy to get one of my dream street cars. I have no need to sell this car and I almost really don’t intend to, so don’t waste your time or mine unless you are very serious about it and really want it. Willing to hear out trade options but if your vehicle isn’t worth 30k in the fair market value don’t even bother. This is a niche type sale, I know my car isn’t worth 30k on kbb or whatever. You may say im asking too much, i disagree and i dont care because i really dont mind keeping it. To the right person that is wanting to go into a competitive series or have a super rad and reliable “pro” car this is in fact one hell of a deal. I have over 50K into building this car within the last year and a half with about 20-30% of that being labor. 90%+ of the parts on the car are 1 year old with very very little usage. I’ll be taking a 40% loss on the money I’ve spent in just a year to build it. This saddens me but it comes with the whole “building a custom car thing”. Chassis has 160k miles, its a real M3, engine has about 4k. It’s fully built for boost or nitrous, but that was another 7-10k to do and my old financial condition has diminished, which is why it’s remained NA for now.
I’m sure I’ve missed a ton of stuff that’s been done with the car but this is a fair starting point for a sales ad and if I gauge that someone is heavily interested and has cash in hand or can prove how serious they are, you’re more than welcome to come take a look at the vehicle. We can start it, ill give you a ride in it, possibly let you drive, and show you the whole build from bumper to bumper. Even if you were a shop owner or custom builder that could do every single thing yourself, it would be very hard to replicate a build like this for the price I’m asking. Formula Drift cars can cost well over 100k to build, and this car can get there with about half that spent in total. The car works very very well! Have many receipts and documentation for just about everything.
Contemplating selling the car also because my end goal is to be in Formula Drift Pro Circuit as a strong competitor. It’s not really feasible without a strong and consistent financial backing.(whether it’s your own income or sponsored help) I’m going back to school at the beginning of the year to re-approach life differently, so any dream of strongly competing through proam is very unlikely to be happening in the next 4 years unless miracles start happening. I hate to have money “sitting” so to say and am contemplating taking a huge loss to just have 1 nice car to drive everyday while im in school and to still be in the “car world”. But as said above, if the car doesn’t gauge interest, I will just keep it and be running a bunch of grassroots and potentially some proam comp events as best as I will be able to afford. Regardless I wont be finished with drifting just have to prioritize other things to be able to eventually come back to it stronger.
1998 M3 Convertible. Bought this car factory in March of 2016 with 156K miles as running driving daily but that took a turn quite quick. It was quickly built with no expenses spared. Besides the cage, majority of the car was built by Countersteer LLC in Canton GA. If you know the shop, you’ll have an idea of the quality of their builds. They did the full swap, wiring, plumbing, and installed majority of the aesthetics. Car was built to rip and that it does!
This is purpose built machine, a toy, or a tool if you will. Not really a daily car, but it can very well be street driven. I used to and never got in trouble with police or even bothered for driving it. It was built to handle many years of use and to compete in Formula Drift’s Pro-Am series. If it doesn’t sell that is still what I intend to do with it.
ENGINE::::::: block built by Ball Engine and engine assembled in the middle of 2016. Everything was brand new. Engine may have between 3000-5000miles on it. It did some street driving for a little while, reliable enough to drive around all day even as a full race car. Also have done 6-7 drift events. Oil pressure is 55 at cold start, 40-45 when hot idle. I watch it like a hawk, its never dropped oil pressure while driving not like it ever should.
Basically a fully built LS6 engine. 5.7 Alluminum LS1 block, with5.7 243 LS6 heads.
LS6 factory 10.5 compression because the engine is built for boost and can easily
handle power in the 800-1000 range with a forced induction setup. It’s what I intend to do eventually if keeping the car. Tuning was done in 3 stages through Vengeance Racing. Base tune to start the car, Street tune to break the engine in, and then shortly after a full dyno tune. Made 418hp and 414tq on a really conservative and reliable tune with a 6,600rpm redline.
Short Block
Vat Clean Block
Bore/Hone V8 Block with Torque Plate
Square Deck V8 Block w/BHJ Fixture
Balance Rotating Assembly
Cyro treated Crank
Polish Crankshaft
Align Hone V8 Block
Short Block Assembly
Mahle Lightweight Pistons and Rings
Manley H-beam Connecting Rods
Mahle Rod Bearings
MahleMain Bearings
Mahle Cam Bearings
ARP 2000 rod bolts, main crank bolts, head studs/nuts pushrod and rollers
Comp Cam Custom Grind
Patriot LS6 stage 2 CNC Aluminum Heads (fully built, reworked, cleaned, hot washed, vacuum tested, and surfaced)
LS6 Inatake Manifold
ls6 throttle body
Holley EFI High Flow Fuel Rails
Holley Aluminum Valve Covers
Holley GM LS retrofit Oil Pan Baffle Kit
Melling Performance Oil Pump
Holley GM LS retrofit Oil Pan
Summit Oil Pan gasket
Chevy Performance (cranshaft position sensor, valve cover gaskets)
AC DELCO (camshaft position sensor, mechanical water pump, water necks)
FEL-PRO GASKETS (manifold, rear main seal cover, valley pan, timing cover
ARP stuff (Cam bolts, Chromly Header bolts, Oil pan bolts, Chromoly Intake manifold bolts, Timing cover bolts, pro series flywheel bolts)
CTS-V full accessory kit.
Steam port kit from summit
FUELING::::::
Aeromotive 360 fuel pump
Gm performance fuel filter/regulator
60# FIC Injectors
Holley efi fuel rails
TRANSMISSION and back::::::::: jk40c(CD009) out of 09 370z with approximately 65k miles just to over estimate it. Close Ratio transmission just as strong as t56, better shifting, and slightly cheaper to replace. It’s hooked up to the LS bellhousing via Collins Adapter system..
Collins items include (adapter plate, pilot bearing)
T56 Hydraulic Slave Cyclinder
Clutch made by Clutch Specialties to handle 700ftlbs of torque.
Gktech Shifter relocated forward a bunch.
Custom one piece driveshaft with 350z yoke.
2.91 welded differential (long gears, especially second in comparison to most 6speed cars around) but also have factory 3.15lsd with 156k miles. Still worked awesome!
SUSPENSION:::::::
SLR Speed Ultra Angle Kit arguably the best kit in the world for bmw’s with steering ackerman adjustments.
SLR adjustable Lollipops
SLR strut relocation to reduce camber (not installed)
Z3 1.9 steering rack, really quick steering with the angle kit
Megan Euro Street 2 Coilovers (feels really solid with this setup, not too stiff making for really good grip laterally and forward)
I run the car with no sway bars, but have both the factory ones.
Ground Control rear lower control arm.
AKG 75D bushings (subframe, differential, and rtabs)
COOLING::::::
The car idles at 190* hot, and I never run it hotter than 220* (because of all the money and parts I have in the engine I watch it like a hawk!)
Misimoto m3 radiator
Black magic dual fans with shroud,4k cfm
Trackspec Motorsport hood louvers (looks sick, and evacuates a bunch of heat)
Cyro sprayer mounted to spray radiator for extra cooling when needed
Aesthetics::::::::
Reiger style front lip
Felony Form overfenders
ESR SR08 wheels Fronts are 18×8.5 +35, Rears are 18×10.5 +22 have 6 of them!
Tires currently are brand new Continental 225/40, Rears are Maxxis 275/35
NRG carbon fiber spoiler
Trackspec Motorsport hood louvers
Car is wrapped in 3M blue, Can get the exact code if asked, and have plenty extra.
INTERIOR AND SAFETY:::::::
Bridgemoto takachi drivers seat with halo
Bridgemoto Harnesses in blue
Bride Lowmax passenger seat
Race Tech door straps
Hard motorsports door panels
Hard motorsports heater core block off panel
Sparco 350mm steering wheel in suede
NRG quick release
ARC8000 switch panel with (ignition, fuel, fan, lights, wipers, and windows)
Intellictronix Tachometer (looks cool AF)
AEM wideband
AEM oil pressure
AEM water temp
Formula Drift spec cage by NightOwlPerformance with Nascar style door bars
MISCELLANEOUS:::::::
ASD HYDRAULIC handbrake
Massive Lee dual caliper brackets
Wilwood 4pot calipers
Wiring harness by Wiring Specialties with Obd 2 port and check engine light
Full race body harness built by Countersteer LLC
CX racing engine mounts
Cx racing radiator swap plumbing
Custom transmission mount by Countersteer
ABS delete
Oil catch can with filter, plumbed from both valve covers and
Moroso Filtered oil cap for extra crankcase ventilation
Brand new Windshield from Godfather glass
Front drilled and slotted rotors with hawk pads
Rear rotors just recently replaced with oem part
ECS tuning SS brake lines
Ecs tuning stud conversion 86mm
Soft top works manually, takes about 1 minute to put up or down it’s also blue
Car is silver underneath with good paint!Clean title in hand!
Tags: m3 ls6 ls1 ls bmw manual swap drift car e36 racecar “
Source: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/d/1998-bmw-m3-lsx-drift-car/6443511833.html
