$10,500 – Annapolis, MD:
“Okay kids. This one sucks to get rid of, but I have an opportunity to move to the west coast, so this has to go. Not super pressed, and not gonna be renewing this ad until the spring if it doesn’t sell, I’ll just put tags on it and putt around in it every now and then.
No trades without a substantial amount of cash on top, and it still has to be manual, RWD, and running/driving. Kind of out of the drifting scene.
So. You want to buy a ready-to-go drift car, but you don’t want a 240sx? Don’t feel like buying some other “drift capable” car like a mustang or an E36? Don’t want some hoopty project, but also don’t need immaculate clean? Then I got what you need. Enter the 1990 Nissan Laurel.
I got this car about a month ago from a close friend in a trade, I’m sure you saw it for sale. Or maybe you didn’t. Either way he lived in the mountains where there’s zero car scene, and it snowed more than it didn’t, so the car rarely got driven. Obviously the car came from Japan, where it was a drift car, so go watch some videos of Ebisu, Nikko, Bihoku, or just some normal street or touge action and you can imagine what kind of action the car was about. The car was legally imported under the 25+ Year law by Quickstyle Motorsports about 2 years ago. From there, QS brought it out to Drift Nirvana for 100 Drifters of December where I saw it for the first time, and it was an absolute monster on the track. Then a few weeks later, my buddy purchased it with a clean and clear Maryland title ready to go. Fast forward to now, I own it, and will be moving out west soon, so I️ need to get rid of this first.
Okay okay, you don’t give a shit about the back story. So let’s get into details.
-Clean MD title
-RB25det series 1 that was installed by the drift wizards over in jay-pan
-Apexi Intake
-GTR FMIC
-External oil cooler
-GREX oil sandwich plate
-Kaaz 1.5 way rear diff (might be a 2-way, can’t remember. Locks like a boss)
-Glow shift gauges (oil press.,temp, boost, and water temp)
-Rare “Grace” sideskirts
-DMAX 25mm front fenders with flares over top
-Car Modify Wonder hood
-Bride drivers seat (torn from getting in and out but still holds up well)
-GTR pass seat
-Mega baller blacklights in the footwells and purple LEDs in the cluster
-Super trendy drift handbrake button thingy, but the e-brake actually locks like a champ
-NRG wood grain wheel (I know, ew. Whatever)
-Greddy PROFEC B boost controller
-Upgraded sway bars
-Boxed front control arms
-Megan racing rear adjustable control arms
-Solid subframe bushings
-Braced and boxed subframe connections
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Z32 running gear (5-lug, brake upgrades)
-Kouki tail lights with center varnish
-Kouki front lip (cracked but it’s all there)
-3″ turboback with blast pipes
-HKS coilovers in rear
-DG-5 front coilovers
-17×9,9.5 et+12 varrstoens
-AND THE MOST IMPORTANT WORKING HEAT AND A/C WHATS GOOOOOD.The car made a 5 hour drive from St. Mary’s to Oakland as well as several other multi-hour trips, and was regularly driven around at least once a week; I fire it up and drive it around my neighborhood just to keep the juices flowing and my neighbors questioning. The motor could use colder plugs which I’ll probably do this weekend coming up, right now it has NGK BKR7EIX plugs, but I’ll probably swap them out for copper BKR6E plugs. Pulls like crazy, but seems to hesitate at WOT in first gear, no problems in any other. RB25 trans shifts smoothly every time, no pop outs or grinds. Clutch grabs perfectly and consistently. Also isn’t too stiff or too soft, has the perfect feel in my opinion. bUt wHaT sTaGe iS iT bRo??? HoW mUcH bOoSt? Shut up. It’s probably a stage 2 or 3 clutch, and it’s running 12ish on factory wastegate from what I understand. Haven’t touched the boost controller because the car has plenty of power where it is. It’s dailyable, leaves a smile on your face every time you touch it, has heat and AC, music, and it’s solid. Sure, it’s an RB25, smack a big turbo and some injectors on, go make some power. You can do that, I’m not gonna. Don’t wanna. Don’t needa. S’cool the way it is.
So that’s all rad shit. So let’s get to the meh things:
-the car has apparently been like 3 different colors. Looks like it was originally white. Then it was resprayed some shade of red, which the engine bay is still painted (kinda wish it was still that color), and now black. The paint sucks if you care about that sort of thing which I kinda do. There’s paint chips on various edges, paint drips on at least the drivers rear c-pillar, and other blemishes. Drift car.
-The fiberglass on this car has damages. The edges of the fenders where they meet the doors/a pillars have chipping. Doesn’t seem to be any damage other than that. The hood on the other hand, oh boy. The inner frame has separated from the skin of the hood, the frame cracked on the drivers side causing a weird dip on the hood, one corner of the vent cracked as well as the center support of the vent (pics included). Again, drift car.
-the interior is also meh. The car at one point had a Cusco bolt-in roll cage, but that seemed to be removed before it was sent to live an American life full of the vape-toting nerds that we call a car community. That said, there’s squares cut out of the carpet where the cage was bolted in (C33s don’t have a B-pillar so you should probably source another cage. Haven’t heard any horror stories about the lack of pillar, I’d just do I️t for peace of mind and scene points). There were no back seats or rear shelf when the car was brought over. A rear seat from an old Nissan Maxima was put in place, but it’s useless since the back works and the bottom doesn’t. Plus there’s no seat belts, not sure where you can get rear seat belts for a laurel, maybe a Maxima will work. Whatever, drift car. The dashboard has 3 holes where the gauges were mounted (now in center console for easier vision), which I might fill them and wrap it with fabric. Drivers door has some homemade fabric on the door card. Once again, drift car.
-drivers rear window needs a regulator but guess what?! S14 REG FITS, GO GRAB ONE FROM AUTOZONE SUCKAAAAA! *dabs violently*
-oil pressure gauge has a voltage drop, when the lights are on the gauge drops, when the wipers or signals are on, it will fluctuate. It’s a stock RB25, you’ll be okay. Drift car.
-belt squeals for about 30 seconds on startup when it’s cold. Drift car.
-needs colder plugs, which I’ll probably do next weekend. Might still drift 100DOD this year who knows.
So that’s all that. What you do with this car is not of my concern. I personally wanted to find a gangster ass kit, some VS-KFs or some other hotboi wheels, paint the car, and go swangin with my friends. But instead I’m trying to move out west because that seems cool. As I said, not super pressed to sell it, I’ll still play with it in the meantime, and the setup is subject to change because as long as it’s still in my driveway I’m going to do what I want with it. So, buy it and drive it, or don’t and I’ll keep playing with it and drive it myself.
Why was the ad this long? Because I’m honest and up front. Not for your benefit, but because I don’t have time for games. So just to recap, it’s rad and you should buy it. I really don’t want to trade, if it’s something else to slide and you have a hefty amount of cash to put on top, maybe. Other than that, cash only. Might be able to deliver the car but you’re coming to look at it first as again, I don’t have time for games. Text preferred, but if you’re one of those nerds that likes email, I check it from time to time. I DONT NEED HELP SELLING IT. But you know, tell your friends anyway. “
Source: https://annapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/1990-nissan-laurel-rb25det/6482675093.html
